Isabel Toledo gets All Doll'd Up for Portfolio in Motion

Well the school year is nearly over and how best to wrap it up with Marymount’s annual fashion show Portfolio in Motion featuring students’ designs, which took place April 22-24. For me, this year’s show All Doll’d Up was the best because I actually was a part of the show’s production. As a student in the Fashion Show Production Class I had the pleasurable opportunity of being a member of the Public Relations Team, which helped to spread awareness about the show and so much more. Some of our duties included creating prototypes for tickets, flyers, and table tent formats, making posters, selling tickets, conducting interviews, and so much more. Helping out with the show was such a fun experience as well as educational one because I never truly understood what goes behind the scenes of a fashion show including the music selection, lighting designs, seating arrangements, garment reviews, etc.

In keeping with the theme the stage incorporated elements of a doll house such as damask wall paper designs, paintings of chandeliers, windows, and crystal door knobs. The runway was outlined with stringed pearl bulbs. The make-up was phenomenal. Female models had heavy rosy cheeks, long doll-like lashes, and for the most part bright fuchsia lips. Their hair was either teased in a messy bun or pig tails as well as adorned with bows made from their own hair. The designs featured ran the gamut of futuristic styles to those suited for those of the Islamic faith. I loved the diversity of the clothing as it reflected that of Marymount. Despite our diverse backgrounds we can come together and make an awesome impact especially on the fashion world right here from our small campus. Below you will find pictures of the garments I enjoyed the most.

Every year Marymount honors a designer. This year’s honoree was Isabel Toledo the mastermind behind Michelle Obama’s lemon grass colored inaugural dress. She and her

husband, Ruben Toledo were such a delight, naturally complementing one another. They were also gracious enough to donate the original sketch of the dress to the silent auction that took place before the Thursday evening show. I really was touched by Mrs. Toledo speech addressed to the senior designers. She reminded them to stay true to themselves as well as to keep sewing. She stressed that it is not enough to illustrate your designs but to make your garments so that your imprint can be passed to generations to come.

The original sketch of Michelle Obama's inaugural dress

A close up of the hair and make-up

A Congressional Nod to Fashion

Fashion finally has federal government backing. Last week it was announced that there will be a congressional caucus for the fashion industry chaired by Democrat Representatives Diane Watson, Jerrold Nadler, and Carolyn Maloney. They represent the fashion capitals in America – California and New York. The caucus was the brain child of the President and founder of Greater Washington Fashion Chamber of Commerce, Christine Brooks-Cropper. She hopes that the caucus’ efforts will help provide funding for Fashion scholarships, job creation within the industry, fashion project initiatives, as well as copyright protection that was initially introduced with the Design Piracy Prohibition Act.

I am so happy for this mix of fashion and government, two elements that rarely intertwine outside the White House nowadays. The timing is ironic to me because I am actually starting to consider job options within government where I could utilize my Fashion Merchandising degree. I thought my search would be fruitless, but this movement gives me hope.

I also think this caucus will give an added appeal to the Washington, D.C. area. Washington is often associated with conservative politicians, but if one digs deeper they would find that there is a movement to make this area a fashion hot spot. Washington, D.C has a mecca of non-profit organization and local designers and boutiques realize this. They often partner with these organizations to feature their garments in fundraiser fashion shows, giving a more meaningful approach to fashion as well as creating a sense of community. I love this unique approach to fashion and the fact that Washington is in the heart of it.

The suit of.......

Now I understand the display of First Ladies inaugural gowns, but not the display of a suit worn by a civil offender. On Tuesday, April 6th the Newseum announced that it will be the obtainer of O.J. Simpson’s Armani ensemble he wore at his famous 1995 trial for the murder of his former wife and her male companion. The court acquitted him of these charges, but he was later found guilty in a civil case. The Washington Post reported that this acquisition comes after the Smithsonian’s decision to reject the admission of the suit, due to its lack of historical appeal. Some may say the rejection is related to the lingering controversy that always seems to follow Simpson. According to the Washington Post, his beige suit, white shirt, and gold based tie will join the collection of press passes, cartoons, and news information from the trial.

Maybe it’s just me, but I am a little unease with the attention that this suit is and will continue to receive for years to come while at the Newseum. It has been more than a decade since the trial, but it might still be fresh in some individuals’ minds. Whenever there is some press coverage of Simpson concerning the trial, I think of his children and their maternal grandparents – they still lost a mother and a daughter whoever the killer might have been. I think the display of the suit will open up some wounds and add to the sour legacy of Simpson, which his children have to live with everyday. But everyone is entitled to an opinion – one may look at the suit as a symbol of justice while another may see it as a sign of misjudgment.

Bag it on Etsy

The World Wide Web has enable hundreds of to launch their ever longed for careers or dreams. Sites like eBay and Amazon allow buyers and sellers of eclectic items to connect around the globe. Etsy is no different. This site, which was founded in 2005 by Robert Kalin, allows everyday people who may not have the backing of a corporation or manufacturer to sell their handicraft online. A close friend of mine, Jamila, who is practically family, recently launched her purse and stationary collections on this site and has even gained the loyalty of satisfied clients. I love her clutches and bags they are so eclectic and fun. I definitely will be buying one in the near future. Below is a transcript of my interview with her about her designs.

How did you begin your accessories collection?

I just made a tote for my best friend's birthday not knowing what else to do. I had very little money and a lot of time so I catered to my crafty ways and made a fleece and burlap tote with pockets. It was super simple but with detailed hand stitching. Her coworkers went wild for it. I got an order for one from one and made another. From there I just tried to make bags that were less time consuming.

What gives you inspiration for you designs?

It's strange but when I just start handling the fabric and not really thinking too much it turns out better than when I have this master plan for it. When I plan things out on my own they seem to morph into something else. I don’t really know how to sew with patterns so it's easier this way somehow. When I'm commissioned for something it's different. It doesn’t seem to vary much, so as far as inspiration the fabric gets me the most. Fun and busy prints with muted and chill colors are my favorite marriages I guess.

Where do you get your materials from?

I use a lot of refurbished fabric, like things I don't wear anymore to thrifty finds. I also go to the fabric district and other local stores to get them as well.

When you design who do you have in mine?

Just anyone who can appreciate an eclectic clutch. I started with totes and continued with clutches and change purses.

In three words describe your design style?

Eclectic, vibrant, and fun

What is the most challenging for you in the process of designing your purses?

It’s the timing; I need to be more time efficient. I get excited about a combo and then start thinking of others and I tend to lose focus which eats away at my time.

Do you think you will expand to doing a clothing line? If so, what would your vision be for it?

I've always wanted to design clothes. I've been sketching in notebooks since sixth grade but as of now I don't have a single one in my little Moleskins. So I think it’s safe to say no for now.

Is sustainability or "being green" a factor in the items you make?

Indeed. Reusing materials has very little to do with funds. I feel like I'm wasting things when I throw them away just because they may not seem of much use to others. Cutting around the problem and using the good bits is even better than buying new ones sometimes because of the original quality of the reused goods. It also helps me get rid of unwanted and unnecessary things in my closet. Once I use them it makes so much more sense pair with another random fabric.

Here is a link to Jamila's Etsy page http://www.etsy.com/shop/milzamo

Here are pictures of some her bags.

Beach Pose tote

Heart of Africa shoulder tote

Inside the Heart of Africa

Elephants on Parade

(This is my favorite clutch, even though it has been sold already.)

Key to My Heart Clutch

Green Couture

Last fall during my study abroad experience in Paris I had the pleasure of attending the Ethical Fashion Show. This exhibit featured designers and manufactures from around the world including countries in Africa, Europe, and the Pacific, who implement sustainability methods in their clothing and accessories. Whether it is growing their own plants to dye their clothes or the use of recycled material such as used clothing, cork and aluminum, all participants are committed to the preservation of the planet. This exhibit proves that Green Design is gaining momentum around the world, but who knew that such practices where taking place in tiny Florence, Alabama.

I recently read an article in Southern Living about Natalie Chanin who is the owner of and designer for Alabama Chanin. She and her 30 staff members create quality, high-end women's wear and accessories all of which are handmade or hand sewn including the seams of her garments and the intricate embroideries and appliqués found on most of her pieces. She also uses 100% organically cotton that is produced in the South. In addition, she sees to it that her company does not accrue any waste by making sure her office recycles and avoids the use of plastic and paper products. Chanin is committed to slow design which is a method of developing an organization and goods based on handicraft with consideration to the community and the environment. In addition to creating clothes, Chanin hosts workshops in her studio teaching students old durable techniques in hand sewing.

In viewing her Spring 2010 collection, which includes an array of dresses, coats, skirts, and blouses there is an overlying theme of earth tones such as tans, creams, dark clay reds, light sky blues and blush tones. The garments are very unique; her designs are not what you would see in mainstream fashion. I actually think some some of her collection takes a modern day twist on the outfits worn on House on the Prairie. Chanin often uses modest lengths in her dresses and skirts which usually hit right at the knee or lower. You will also find that the clothing is not very revealing, lending to the imagination each piece evokes. Her garments are elegant and the embroidering is immaculate. One can see the quality and time and put into each garment. This high skill is why the clothing is extremely expensive, prices range from anywhere from $200 to $4,000. Let's just say I have something to look forward to once I earn all the money in the world. But until then I will definitely make it appoint to seek out clothing that is made with the commitment to preserve the earth.





Sustainable desings by Alabama Chanin

Here is the link to Alabama Chanin

Dare to be Ugly

As I watch new episodes of Ugly Betty, my heart pines a little. I have never missed an episode and it saddens me that this season will be the last. In my opinion this is one of the more wholesome television shows out there; it has a great message that resonates with many. For those of you who don’t know, this show premiered in 2006 featuring a young woman, Betty Suarez, played by America Ferrera, from Queens with the ultimate dream of being an editor of her own magazine. She unexpectedly finds herself working as an editor’s assistant at the fashion magazine, Mode. The irony of the show is that Betty is not your typical New York fashionista, actually she isn’t one. She is of a Mexican background, short and curvy, wears braces and glasses, and is criticized for indulging herself in her favorite foods. Despite the odds and with the support of her close knit family, Betty stays optimistic and moves up the ladder to the position of Features Editor at the very same fashion magazine where she is tantalized. Her success conveys to viewers that the unlikely can turn into the likely only when you stay true to yourself, not conforming to the expectations of others.

Through her challenging journey at Mode, Betty has been able to pick up a few things or two about fashion. Initially her selection of clothing was less than desirable. On her first day of work, overly eager to impress her new employers and peers, she donned an oversized bright red poncho emblazoned with Guadalajara across the front. She also mixed contrasting color patterns in her work attire and paired her heels with colorful socks. In addition, she subconsciously hid behind her bangs. Now that she in her new position, Betty has managed to maintain her colorful theme while exuding a sense of regalness. She incorporates complementary color shades in her clothing giving balance to her slimmer silhouette. I love how she also uses uniquely shaped handbags and colorful belts in each show.
Oh Ugly Betty how I will miss thee and the message you shared with us from day one: even the unfashionable can be fashionable. But before she leaves for good check out her style sense for yourself on Wednesdays at 10:00 p.m. Eastern Time or on ABC.com.

Betty Before:

First day at Mode

Betty Now:

Love this clutch

What People Do For Designer Labels

Last week I came accross a Washington Post article by Stephanie McCrummen titled, "Labels hide the lies of the ‘sapeur’ lifestyle" in it she exposes the importance placed on name brand clothing in Kinshasa, Congo. She accounts how men revere designer clothing, such as Gaultier, Cavali, Gucci, and so much more, to avoid the reality of their dire lives and environment. These fashion conscious males are referred to as ‘sapeurs,’ a French slang word used for clothes.

These men are making efforts to revitalize a movement that began in the late 1970s by the well known singer Papa Wemba, who defied the then president’s ban on Western clothing. They want to advocate the ‘art of wearing,’ hoping to renew optimism in this country torn apart by warfare and lack of resources. Those who don these enamored labels are often given celebrity status; turning wrecked side streets in to fantasized runways. One would think these garments are only purchased by wealthy Congolese, but in truth many receive them as gifts from relatives living abroad in Europe.

One sapeur, mentioned in the article, lives in a small cramp room under his father’s roof. His father lives on a meager $20 monthly pension. Another one lives in an apartment that has no electricity or indoor plumbing. Despite their lack of monetary wealth and the necessities mentioned above, it is apparent that sapeurs in Kinshasa, Congo measure success according to the labels they wear. They feel validated by the way they carry themselves when wearing designer garments.

I thought this article was interesting because the opposite situation is occuring here in the U.S. Due to the current economic down turn, those who can still afford to wear designer labels are being modest about their purchasing power, unlike the usually limited fund, flashy sapeurs. After reading this article, one should question how much value should be placed on fashion, given his or her economic environment.